A lubricator, socket wrench, "S" wrench, oil-feeder, pulley key, book of instructions and guarantee are shipped packed in the tool box attached to skids.
Wipe off the engine carefully and see that all moving parts work freely and are not gummed with paint. Oil each working part thoroughly, giving special attention to the piston. Turn the engine over until the piston projects. Oil this projecting part thoroughly and then work it back and forth. Repeat this several times in order that the cylinder walls will have a coating of oil.
Take the lubricator from the tool box and place in position on the crank end of the cylinder. Turn up the lever at the top and adjust by means of the knurled nut until it will drop from twenty to twenty-five drops per minute.
Unscrew the caps of all hard grease cups to see that they are filled, then screw down until grease can be seen at the ends of bearings. The connecting rod has a special compression grease cup. To fill, screw down the thumb nut until plunger is raised, then remove cap. Adjust by loosening the thumb nut about one turn.
Fill the supply tank with gasoline.
If the engine is hopper-cooled, half fill the water pot with water; if air-cooled, put the fan belt around right hand fly wheel and fan sheave. Try the governor to see that it is working freely and be sure that the governor collar is free to turn on the crank shaft.
Now turn the fly wheel over slowly to see that the parts are working properly. The igniter should be set to snap off when the crank is about 15 degrees BELOW its inner dead center on the compression stroke. The exhaust valve should open about a third of a revolution beyond the center and close when the inner dead center is reached slightly over one revolution after ignition takes place.
To time the exhaust, loosen the lock-nut on the set screw in the end of the valve lever which strikes the valve stem. Loosening the screw retards the opening and advances closing of the exhaust valve. Make sure lock-nut is tight after adjusting.
On the governor lever is an adjusting screw. Turning this to the left lowers the speed and turning to the right raises the speed. Unless necessary to take engine apart do not change timing gears, as this has been carefully adjusted at the factory.
See that the engine is kept well oiled while in operation, especially the piston and crank shaft boxes. Keep all nuts and screws tight. Take up the wear in boxes by removing the sheet steel liners until you have a snug working fit.
Turn the valves frequently to keep the seats ground.
The water-cooled engines have a drain plug on the bottom of the cylinder. This should always be opened and water drained off in freezing weather when engine is not in use.
All hopper-cooled engines work best after water starts to boil. Keep hopper about one-half full of water.
Gasoline tank should be kept filled.
Never use any other than a good grade of gas engine cylinder oil on the piston of the engine.
Keep all battery wires and connections tight.
Batteries must test over ten amperes or they cannot run the engine.
If low-grade fuel is used in cold weather, it is a good plan to put hot water in the water pot before starting.
IMPORTANT: In ordering the repairs, be sure and specify serial number of engine, which is stamped on name plate. This is absolutely necessary in order to insure correct parts.
* Indicates part is too heavy to be sent by mail and must be forwarded by freight or express.
When ordering be sure to give number and proper name of part, also state size or horse power and number of engine, as this will avoid delay and insure promptness in filling order.
To avoid delay when ordering parts for replacement covered by our guarantee it would be best in all cases to forward amount in full payment, as parts are often lost or delayed in transit, and on receipt of same proper refund will be made.
Do not fail to give full shipping directions to prevent loss of goods.
To insure against loss or delay, parts returned for repairs or credit must be carefully tagged bearing sender's name.